Table Talk

River & Fort: An eye-catching showstopper

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River & Fort, at the crossroads of Avenida Menendez and Cuna Street on the Matanzas River, has created a sense of drama and place that separates it from the rest of the dining candidates in historic St. Augustine.

There are many restaurants that deliver a fantastic culinary experience, others an interesting ambiance, some are just convenient to drop into on a well-traversed, narrow, brick-paved street with a pedigree.

Somehow this show-stopping exquisite new landmark is a multi-level hot ticket destination that’s unquestionably handling the raves!

Let’s step in and take a tour first. You can dine on the audacious rooftop with sofas, umbrella tables and even bar-top ledges with the ultimate view of America’s oldest city. You don’t have to miss any of the magic of St. Augustine. Here you can see the breath-taking Castillo de San Marcos, the legendary Bridge of Lions, rooftops of buildings and homes from the 1600s, horse-drawn carriages and the most expansive vista all the way to the Atlantic Ocean.

The name River & Fort so appropriately embraces the rightful scope of its position in the city.

General Manager Chelsy Johnson is very adept at leading the entire team of this 400-seat landmark from its tranquil dining hours to its bustling I-don’t-mind-waiting-an-hour-for-my-table times!

Don’t select a dining spot quite yet. Chelsy might suggest that you should first select one of nine seating locations. Take a moment to visit the charming sidewalk tables on the Avenue and beautiful indoor dining rooms that feel as if you’ve been dropped into homey-yet-snazzy private homes that buzz with conversations in every language.

Perhaps you’ll select one of two magnificent bars that nearly run the length of the building itself (one irresistibly open air) or romantic balconies that don’t miss a view of the night and day activity all around. River & Fort makes it easy to fall in love with the possibility of dining here at lunch and dinner for a week and never having the same ambience experience twice. Or the same meal!

Get wild and order a scrumptious “Old City Outlaw” cocktail. (Bacardi coconut rum, coconut cream, lime juice, pineapple and mint). Chef’s dishes aren’t the only eye-catching items on the menu! Each specialty cocktail has its connection to St. Augustine’s history: Conquistador, Gun Powder & Guava, Blacksmith, Seminole Wind or Cannonball. It’s not easy to make a selection but I guarantee they are deliciously exceptional.

Executive Chef Derrick Haggerty and his thrilling/evolving menus are the culmination of family roots, childhood eating during his father’s 30-year career as a famous resort executive chef. His is a kaleidoscopic resume of working as chef, sous chef and partner in numerous well-known restaurants and hotels at a very young age.

At River & Fort, he was chosen by the owners not only because he garnered numerous culinary awards, but because he knows how to have free rein to live in the moment with food.

“This is my labor of love,” he said. “When I walked into this building, I knew it was going to be a big job; it’s an empty plate waiting for my ingredients and the quality of exciting food that my team and I can create.”

Chef Derrick has often been referred to locally as the Gordon Ramsey of St. Augustine. He knows what he wants, and his enormous staff must live up to his standards — from the hard working, creative back-of-the-house culinary professionals to the fantastic waitstaff who “wow” you with their knowledge and passion for his food.

If you enjoy dining surprises, the varied plates, bowls and platters are all unique. Each dish is a shining star in its own galaxy; look for the marvelous lion head bowls — reminiscent of the Bridge of Lions!

Chef’s locally inspired menus represent a blend of Southeast, Asian, French — nothing gimmicky or flashy here. But if you adore far-flung combinations of deliciousness, River & Fort has you covered with iconic classics and nothing boring.

We know that overseeing a restaurant of this size is like conducting a symphony, an artistry that takes every member of the team to create an unforgettable experience. Chelsy understands her responsibility to lead 150-plus team members to ensure every guest leaves satisfied.

“We constantly strive to keep the restaurant running smoothly and are committed to the community by creating job opportunities as well as providing a successful vibrant atmosphere,” she said.

Once settled in, take time to really discover the menu. Even if you spot familiar looking dishes, Chef’s food is worthy of investing some time to read — since River & Fort has become a bona-fide dining destination. Imagine fried pickle hushpuppies to share with a datil pepper remoulade. Chopstick wings will impress your palate and friends — Gochujang BBQ, sesame, green onion and root slaw. Even bread service with an aromatic crusty sourdough boule with micros and sweet butter demands a standing ovation.

Summer months are ideal for the elegant roasted beet salad that could stand alone for lunch or dinner. There are two surprising additions to the trio of beets, arugula, goat cheese and green onion. The chef’s sweet mint vinaigrette and two pools of almond butter both brought this dish centerstage.

Hopefully, the crab claw appetizer and scallop entrée will not lose their prominence on the menu as months move forward. The white wine garlic cream sauce where the crab claws dance slowly in the cast-iron pan — well, you might want to dip the entire round loaf of bread. It’s easy to enjoy to the last little taste. The Scallops are gracefully resting atop aged-parmesan risotto paired with roasted corn and fennel chow chow. This dish demands full attention and savoring.

Whether you’re a meat- or fish-lover, gluten free, Keto, vegetarian or vegan, there are so many menu choices that Chef Derrick has created that will obviously change from season to season — but quality will not waiver.

The most amazing part of dining here is the fluidity of menu knowledge that servers share with their tables of guests. Daily, they carry a listing of garnishes, clever mocktails, menu guidance for everyone’s dietary preferences and market prices for many of the specialty foods that are served based on availability. From tomahawk ribeye, lobster, grand seafood platters and flown-in oysters to hand-cut filet, stuffed New York strip and outrageous cioppino — you’re in good hands at River & Fort.

Never forget dessert! Chef’s dessert menu is very popular, because the restaurant is open throughout the day, too — and stopping in for a Pots de Crème could become a chocolate habit. His desserts are elegant — yet could be enjoyed stopping in with flipflops and a St. Augustine beach tan! Consider a Guava Pop Tart, Apple Galette or simply Donuts with Coffee Anglaise! Love is the most ingredient in the recipes.

Table Talk Hint: Leave weekends to the city’s visitors and enjoy River & Fort’s vivacious, esprit, vigor and verve on weekdays. You’ll be imbued with a desire to return often to eat, drink and be merry!